Self-Portrait


The other evening, in a moment of pure spontaneity, I took my pen and started sketching, with a view to scribbling a self-portrait that bore at least some superficial likeness to my visage (unlike my previous efforts). Unbeknownst to my consciousness, when I had finished (all of two minutes later) I realized I had scribbled in my bicycle too. In fact, the significance of this only hit me today some three days later. It was as if my sub-conscious had whispered to my conscious: 'The bicycle is now so much a part of me: my moving, my living, my breathing, my thinking...  that to omit it would be like amputating a leg or an arm, or maybe a leg and an arm (and part of my brain). 

It's funny how objects come to fuse themselves with the self, whether organic entities like children or animals, or inanimate objects like cars or sheds, or bicycles. It is a sort of synergetic dynamic in some cases (man + bicycle, man + animal, man + shed), and in others a parasitical one (man + car, man + ego, man + iPad). Where the former colludes to create an auxesis of living (an increase in health and energy - culture in its pure form), the other combines to de-create, and cause a depletion of living (the body's own engine usurped by the car's, the unindividuated self interrupted by the ego, the brain's own innovativeness corrupted by technology). Here, I had always known of the benefits of cycling since a very young age, and been correspondingly wary of allowing the car to take that away from me. Consequently, at the age of 45, and following, in all likelihood, a three and a half decade relationship with the bicycle (in a variety of forms), I am now very much part bicycle (as the self-portrait emphatically shows). 

The question that now remains is: isn't everyone part bicycle (but they just don't know it) ?






























Dunlop to Fairlie via Dalry

I recall as a youthful 20 something coming across Erl B. Wilkie's 25 Cycle Routes In and Around Glasgow at the local library and being fascinated at just how many country outings there were to be had around the city. At that time of a young person's life, the city has a tendency to swallow you up whole, and so to find a book extolling the virtues of the 'anti-city' was a very interesting find. It planted some seeds in my head, seeds that took some 10 years to germinate, but when they did, boy did they blossom and grow!

Anyway, I mention Erl B because of the quaint little town of Dunlop he pictured in his labour of love. I remember the old world quality of that picture and recall saying to myself (as if I had just seen a picture of Shangri-la) that I would find and visit that place some day.


 Dunlop

Anyways, from Dunlop train station it is more or less a westerly cycle to Fairlie on the coast via Dalry. I usually take the train from Pollokshaws West train station just at the south-east entrance to Pollok Country Park (living as I do in Cessnock which affords me a beautiful 20 minute cycle through the park from the north), but you could equally take the train from the city centre or any station on that particular line.



























Take the more northerly route out of Dunlop towards Burnhouse and just continue westwards along quiet country lanes to Dalry.























































Being a Saturday, and not having a bypass, I couldn't believe the traffic jam that awaited me in Dalry. Thankfully, I was on a bicylcle and just floated past them all as they waited at the traffic lights. When  afew hundred metres later I stopped to ask directions, I mentioned this congestion, and the lady I was talking to told me that the residents of Dalry had been petitioning for a bypass for years. I still can't believe that, effectively, without this bypass, the whole motorway passes through this very small town centre with all the noise, pollution and general menace that this causes. Incredible!


























The weekend warriors out of office in Dalry.




























Once off the main drag and onto the moor road, the space and peace open up, and the views are astonishing. Here, looking back to Dalry (centre left), and beyond.



























Another small group of cyclists up at the Caaf Reservoir just to the left. The road itself is fairly hilly in places but not too steep.


























Beginning the descent down towards Fairlie, just after Knockendon Reservoir.


























I love roads where the regular traffic is not cars!




























The sea, as we passed Ardrossan, looked good enough to swim in. All in all, another great wee cycle, all told, only about 3 hours from Dunlop to Fairlie going at moderate speeds with several pauses.



Milngavie to Balloch via Drymen & Buchanan Castle

From Milgavie, just follow the West Highland Way until Drymen, it's all very cycleable (through Mugdock Wood, past Craigallian Loch, Dumgoyach) if you have a mountain bike and some off-road tyres.




























The route from the West highland Way into Drymen and then up to Buchanan Castle and past the golf club towards Gartocharn.


At Drymen, there is an opportunity to take a path that leads past Buchanan Castle (now abandoned) where Rudolph Hess was imprisoned for a period following his crash-landing during WWII at Floors Farm near Eaglesham. It's a great old building in great old grounds, and more information can be found in Gordon Mason's wonderful Castles of the Clyde Valley, a book that no greater Glasgow cyclist should be without.

From Buchanan Castle, just follow the path through the golf course making sure Conic Hill is behind you not in front of you (I made this mistake the first time and ended up in Milton of Buchanan!!). This should take you out onto the Old Military Road the A811 not too far from the village of Gartocharn. Now, you can either cycle this road all the way to Balloch or, if you prefer not to be hassled by cars, do as I do and take the idyllic back road Sustrans route 7 past Meiklefinnery (with excellent views  of the 'dumpling' Duncryne Hill) all the way to Balloch Castle Country Park.



























The roofless Buchanan Castle in luxurious grounds... (May 2012)


There was an original castle on this site near the village of Drymen as the seat of the Buchanans. But in 1682, because of financial difficulties, it was sold to the Graham Marquis (later Dukes) of Montrose. This building was burned down in 1850 and the present building was created, designed by William Burn with gardens modelled by "Capability" Brown.

After the death of the 5th Duke of Montrose, Buchanan Castle was sold in 1925. It was used as a hotel and then a military hospital during the Second World War. Hitler's deputy, Rudolph Hess was treated for injuries there after he crash-landed in Scotland, near Eaglesham, in May 1941. In the 1950s, in order to avoid paying local taxes, the roof was removed and as a result the building deteriorated rapidly. Much of the surrounding land became a golf course and a number of houses have also been built in the grounds.

In 2003, a planning application was turned down to demolish the internal walls of Buchanan Castle and retain only the south and east walls. 39 flats would then have been built in the interior space of the ruin. However, it is likely that the developers will be back with alternative proposals. 



Milngavie to Balloch via Killearn & Duncryne Hill

This is a great cycle and follows some of the West Highland Way after Killearn for a few kilometres until the hamlet of Gartness. From Milngavie train station follow the road uphill to Mugdock village and then the Old Mugdock Road down (!!) to Strathblane. Join the main drag to Blanefield and take the small foothills road (the old waterworks route, Campsie Dene) beneath the fells which leads car-freely beneath some old volcanic forms all the way to Killearn.




























The old waterworks route, the Campsie Dene, from Blanefield to Killearn. Here, looking north to the bosky knolls of Dumgoyach on the left and its smaller counterpart on the right.


























Approaching Killearn, looking back at Dumgoyne.



 Killearn

From Killearn, after musing at the giant obelisk to the 'prince of poets' George Buchanan, head downhill and join the WHW path towards Gartness. From Gartness keep on the WHW for a few hundred metres before breaking off onto the sustrans path to Balloch (the WHW continues on the road to Drymen).

Cross the rather exciting 'rope-bridge' (Dalnair House visible to the left) and head onto Croftamie. Shortly after Croftamie the sustrans railway path reverts to quiet country road, and it's about 6 miles or so winding these beautiful back roads until Balloch. Along the way, there is the opportunity to venture up the 'dumpling' aka. Duncryne Hill, where Tom Weir cut his teeth as a boy before more adventurous sorties. It is without a doubt one of the finest small hills in Scotland, mostly because of the aperture at its summit (all of 142m). Ascending from the south, one has little idea of what to expect other than the fact that Loch Lomond is on the other side. It'll take you 30 minutes of a detour to get up and down, and should not be missed. The view from the top is incredible!

From Duncryne, then, to Balloch is a few kilometres, and has a beautiful entrance through Balloch Country Park and some gigantic trees. It's all quietly downhill from here to the station.

























Looking north from the 'rope bridge' to Conic Hill et al.


 Looking towards the dumpling, Duncryne Hill.



























Looking north over Loch Lomond towards the Highlands from the summit of Duncryne Hill.


























In Balloch Country Park some very large and remarkable trees!




A short video of the view from the summit of the dumpling (taken in summer 2012).





Lochwinnoch to Port Glasgow via Duchal Moor


I've wanted to skip across Duchal Moor for a while now. My first foray was back in 2006 up to Muirshiel Country Park, and beyond to Queenside Hill. What a day that was! Back then, I was so skint I couldn't afford the train fare so I cycled everywhere which meant cycling from my digs in Cessnock to Paisley and then on the Sustrans path to Lochwinnoch and up. Now, with a bit of (not much) cash in my skyrocket I can afford the fiver return train fare to Lochwinnoch or wherever without having to worry about not being able to eat that evening. I am still of course, in tune with nature, very frugal, and only really use the train as a springboard or as a way of avoiding a heart-attack by cycling too far. Anyway, here, today I discovered something wonderful about Scotrail. I didn't want a return to Lochwinnoch because I was planning on returning from Port Glasgow, so I had kinda resigned myself to buying two singles (at around a fiver apiece compared with a 6 quid return ticket). So, on the train from Dumbreck to Paisley Canal I asked the conductor if there was any flexibility here, and he punched a few things into his little handheld ticket machine. A few whirrs later he told me about 'Excess': which is exactly what I wanted. It means that he calculates the return fare to your point of return, i.e. Dumbreck to Port Glasgow (which is 5.90) and adds the excess to your existing ticket, that is a return, effectively, to Lochwinnoch (5.60). Here, the excess is 30p, so that's what I paid over and above my return o Lochwinnoch. So, effectively I bought a return to Port Glasgow except that I got three tickets, the two portions of my return to Lochwinnoch and the excess return ticket from Port Glasgow to Dumbreck. You might not think this anything special, but for me it was the flexibility and the ingenuity of it that surprised me. Next week, for instance, when I take my body and bike across Ayrshire from Dunlop to Fairlie I can do the same thing: arrive at Dunlop, cycle to Fairlie and return from there without having to incur the high price of two single tickets. I can simply ask for an excess ticket, explain where I am returning from and voila! A return ticket at a very reasonable price.

Anyway, back to the cycling.

From Lochwinnoch train station every care has to be taken when joining the main road. It is one of the most dangerous exits I have ever seen anywhere, with HGVs thundering down inches away from you (there is no pavement). When you get onto the road on your bike, maintain the middle of the road. Do not let anyone pass you for the 400m or so that it is to the right turnoff to Lochwinnoch village. I say this because there are little traffic islands that thin the road and if you keep to the left, cars and trucks are apt to squeeze you into the verge as they try to squeeze themselves through the narrowed road (which is precisely designed to calm speeding drivers). As I say it is a terrible piece of road and I am surprised there are no speed bumps outside the station to deal with this.

Anyway, once off the main drag, cycle through Lochwinnoch village admiring the collegiate church as you pass, and head straight on onto the single track road by the river which will take us up to the single track road up to Murishiel Visitor Centre. 




























It`s a lovely road. 3 miles of gentle gradient and with views of the Mistylaw hills and the River Calder to your left. The visitor centre is worth a visit if only to see some of the wonderful birds at the bird feeders out back. As soon as I arrived I saw a great-spotted woodpecker which I had only dreamed about since leaving Warsaw in 2009 (Warsaw is a city of woods and woodpeckers!). The staff are very helpful and to be honest look as if they could do with a bit of company. Sadly, not may people come up here. You could take the short hike up to Windyhill which I did the other day and simply return back down to Lochwinnoch and the train afterwards, or equally hike up to any number of hills around here, Queenside, Hill of Stake, Mistylaw, and call it a day. The remoteness and semi-wildness enriches the spirit immeasurably. But do bring supplies (compass, water, map), as well as perhaps a waterproof jacket, as it ain`t called Mistylaw for nothing!


Today, however, I wanted to take the Hardridge track which is marked on the OS Explorer maps but not on the OS Landranger maps. On the latter it kinda follows the old narrow guage railway line that the grouse shooters had installed (what a bunch of lazy bastards!) to ferry them across the boggy moorland lest their expensive plus fours got spoiled. Anyway, the moor is well boggy and the track is flooded in places, so it is definitely an off-road bike day, preferably with the larger 29`` wheels. Just be careful of some of those pools of water, as some of them run rather more deeply than you might think. 



























The track follows all the way down to Hardridge Farm and beyond onto the main road where you can turn left at Chapel up over the hill on another single track back road (no longer used by cars). From here it is all rolling countryside to Port Glasgow and some spectacular views from up on top of the Devol Road beside the golf course. The train station is a few minutes away all severely downhill.













Don't be afraid to throw the bike on your back and cross the moor if the path ahead looks too watery.














The view from Devol Road.



































Just follow the marked red route from south to north